THE INNER SEAM—
To Keep Your Soul
on staying true to the vision, featuring the hermès chaîne d'ancre jewellery collection 
BY Rosie Dalton

The humble link is a motif that snakes back through the history of Hermès, back to the origins of the House as a harness workshop in the 19th century. Originally established in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, Hermès then wrought harnesses and bridles of the highest quality for European noblemen. A century later, artistic director Robert Dumas found himself inspired by the anchor chains that he saw on the passing boats as he strolled along the Normandy coast. Which inspired the shape of the iconic Chaine d’ancre motif—first introduced by Hermès in the form of a silver bracelet in the year 1938.

According to the Maison, Chaine d’ancre ‘exemplifies the “intelligence of the eye” and the harmonious balance between practicality and beauty that is quintessential to the Hermès philosophy.’ A philosophy that has been unwavering since those very early days of the House. 

Flash forward to the year 2023 and Pierre Hardy, the creative director of Hermès jewellery, continues to be inspired by this legendary motif—the links of which reflect the company’s long-standing chain-making expertise. And so, this year, Hardy has crafted an entire collection in honour of this historic legacy. 

The Chaîne d'ancre collection by Hermès is one in which links dance across collarbones and cuffs lend a sparkle to earlobes. Where the link becomes a motif and the clasp plays a leading role, just as the chain takes its fluid form in precious metals such as white and rose gold, set with black spinels and blue sapphires, or pavé-set with diamonds and embellished with a masterful centre stone. 

First unveiled on Thursday June 29 at Hermès Paris Faubourg Saint Honoré, the Chaîne d'ancre collection takes an historic symbol of the House into unprecedented territory. Here, Hardy has stayed true to the vision—honouring the link and chain motifs explored throughout the Maison’s history, while also rendering that vision in a modern context. What began with a silver Chaîne d'ancre bracelet in 1938 has now bloomed into an entire collection—where rows of nautical chain are intermingled, multiplied, or isolated. And where links, whether slender or imposing, are rounded, lengthened, or interlaced.

In this latest chapter of a story that spans throughout the centuries, Pierre Hardy proves that the Chaîne d’ancre can be both light and strong. ‘Each of its components is an exploration of materials and forms, from the minimalist to the sophisticated,’ explains the House. ‘In astonishing changes of scale, its motif can be discreet or assertive, like a distinctive seal.’ 

An example: the discreet appeal of a single earring that falls in an elongated drop, like a chain of diamonds. Or a surprising “minaudière”—little Sacs bijoux rendered in white gold and diamonds—which are designed to be worn around the neck or wrist. These more delicate pieces are contrasted against some of the more assertive styles that feature throughout the collection. Styles with a nod to Punk culture. Like the ear cuff in which a gilded chain traces its way from lobe up to helix. And like the double or triple rings that are adorned with diamonds and black spinels. A dance of dichotomy, where light meets dark. 

Almost two centuries after the very first Hermès links were rendered by the finest artisans of the day, Pierre Hardy’s hand has today led this motif into brand new territory, with a collection of original styles that honour the cavalier spirit of Hermès. By staying true to the vision and paying homage to the symbolism that snakes back through its legacy, this Maison once again proves that true luxury is a statement in timelessness. 

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